Catch-up

We're here on Corsica. The story so far...... Whilst we were in Germany we got an email from a guy called Antonio from Pisa who saw our blog and invited us down to pick our brains because he and his wife Laura were planning a trip to the eastern block countries. So, by the time we contacted him we were in Switzerland.
So, heading down through Switzerland and Austria on some of the most amazing roads we have riden on; we crossed over into Italy and down through the Italian Alps; more amazing roads.
Turns out Antonio is planning to move to Townsville with his Australian wife at the end of the year. Cut a long story short; we hit it off with these guys qnd stayed with them in their house in Grosetto (half way between Pisa and Rome). Antonio (on his GS) took us for a ride through the Tuscany countryside - nice country. He also suggested we take a side trip to Corsica. So leaving Tuscany we caught the ferry to Bastia on Corseca; We've travelled the length of the island and now in Ajjecio suning ourselves on the beach for 3 days. Heading on the ferry to Nice next Monday and from there, who knows!
To Antonio and Laura - can't thank you guys enough for your hospitality and friendship. It must be fate we met you both. Looking forward to catching up with you in Townsville next Autumn. Laura - get your man another bloody beer woman (in-house joke)!
Mum - should be back in the UK in around 2 weeks - more later.
Photos later when we can upload them on a proper computer.

We're now in Italy

From the cold at around 0 degrees, we road down the Italian side of the Alps into 33 degree heat! From Switzerland we entered the northern part of Italy to travel down to Pisa to see a friend. Again, some of the most amazing riding roads we've ever seen. We're camped just on the edge of Pisa for a few days then should be heading westish towards the Med etc.

More of the Alps

The Swiss Alps

Over the next few days we toured Austria, Leichtenstein and Switzerland. Lost count of the number of tunnels we went though (the longest was 15km); also heaps of high bridges. We went over a number of high passes including Fliielapass (2,383m) and Furkapass (2,436m). We also went for a 'walk' up to the top of Mt Titlis (3,020m) and the Matterhorn (3,800m).

Over the course of a couple of days, I ended up with a sore left hand - it was because I was waving at the hundred and thousands of bloody bikes on the road! Every biker in the alps must have been on holidays. The roads are the best I've ever riden; abslutely bloody awesome.

The Matterhorn

A quaint little mountain pass!

Heading for Munich

After we left Belin, we headed for Munich (to see the BMW production plant - I thought!). Anyway, on the way, I used the back brake (don't need to use it that often because of the ABS) and heard a grating noise. Stopped and saw the back pads had totally gone, worn down to the metal. Bloody hell! So, pulled over at a servo and put on the spare set I was carrying and headed for Munich seeing we had the address of the BMW workshop. Good time for a service and put a full new set of pads on. Photo below is the parking lot of the service area! Room for 150 bikes, the wirkshop at about 20 mechanics on duty and there were 25 separate service areas. Not having much faith (seeing the long line of bikes to be serviced - thought it would take a week!) we stolled up to the boss, flashed the pearly whites and told him we just came half way round the world and needed a service - no problem, jobs done in 90 minutes and were on our way again. Thanks Fred and the other guys who helped us out.

We then headed for Austria - first sight of snow on the mountains.

Our time in Berlin

Went sightseeing on Saturday, weather was a bit kinder, no rain, but cold. Toured the old wall, Hitler's Bunker, Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandenburg Gate and other sights. Strangest one was the bunker which is now under a car park for a block of residential flats! Not much of the old wall left.

The Gate
Checkpoint Charlie
Hitler's bunker somewhere under this car park
The original wall

Switzerland

Just a quick update: been to Munich, Austria, Lichtenstein, and now in Switzerland near St. Moritz. Heading south out of the snow! Will update later.

We're in Berlin

Made it to Berlin this morning in pouring rain (again) and freezing cold. Doing the city tour tomorrow. More later.

Re-cap on Russia for other travellers

Basically, ditto as per my previous post for the Ukraine. Petrol procedure the same; road signs and navigation the same. The TomTom this time didn't even show major roads - nothing; so the compass came in handy again.
I must have run about 7 or 8 red traffic lights. The bloody things are so old and dirty; it is hard to see them (usually hidden behind a bush or sign); they've never been cleaned, so it's hard to tell if they're on or what colour light is showing.
In all the time we were in the ukraine and Russia, we never got stopped by the cops - think that was amazing considering how many people told us to be ready to hand out $5 bills!. I even got a $100 US dollars in $5 bills to be ready - now I can change them for Euros!
I think I found the car drivers in Russia to be extremely polite and biker-aware than any other country we passed through - which was a bonus considering we were using a compass to navigate and wasn't concentrating that much on the traffic, but which way to go!
All the crap you hear about the Russian Mafia is just that! I recon we must have spoken to a few people who couldn't have been anything else - the theme is: you got to worry about the punks in the street; the mafia are into business and don't give a toss about tourists.
Finally, it would be helpfull if you could get a copy (in English) of the customs declaration form you need to bring a bike into the country (and also leave). We were luck to have someone at the border (entering Russia) help us filling the form out (it was all in Russian); but on the way out the customs guy handed us an English form. No real hassles crossing in or out of Russia. customs and border guards were courteous and very helpfull - once they saw we were aussies! And once again the comment - No! it's impossible, you came to see us all the way from Australia - I don't believe it!
All in all - we absolutely loved Russia - fantastic cities and even more fantastic people. Forget the communist/socialist/ political bullshit / or whatever - Russia is awesome. Anyone that is thinking of going, just do it. You'll never regret it; and you might even make some great new friends like we did. You know who you are - thank's heaps guys, we'll try and get back one day.

Our time in Warsaw

We spent today playing tourist and saw most of Warsaw including the Old Town, Jewish Ghetto, and lots of other historical sites. most of warsaw was destroyed in WWII, but the new buildings have been built in the old style. Also lots of new modern buildings. Very interesting history and pretty city; with friendly people.

Monument to Chopin

The Royal garden

Memorial to the Jews

The Old Town

We're going to stay a couple of days with Michael's son's girlfriend's sister and meet her mother; then we're heading for Berlin. From there, south to the BMW factory in Munich.

Few more pics

Me at the border
Stickers!
A beach in Latvia
An empty border post in Latvia

Estonia to Poland

We left Estonia (Tallinn) last Friday. Today (Sunday) we arrived in Warsaw - crossing Latvia and Lithuania (which weren't much to look at; nothing but flat open countryside with miles of fields). A couple of photos along the way:

Some images of St Petersburg

Tallin (Estonia)

Left St Petersburg for the Estonian border yesterday morning. The roads were woeful - one big pothole!. Crossed out of Russia in about 45 minutes with no problems. The TomTom came back on and we were able to navigate to our hotel in Tallin with no difficulty. We're staying in the Old City part of Tallin and went for a stroll this morning to find nothin but American and German tourists - thousands of them!
Some photos of the old city:

Leaving St Petersburg

We're leaving St Petersburg tomorrow morning (Thu 5 June) and travelling west towards Estonia. Photos of Peter when we have more time to post . . . .

Moscow to St Petersburg

It's Wednesday 4 June. We rode into St Petersburg yesterday afternoon and was met by a member of the Rolling Anarchy MC and escorted to their clubhouse where we spent last night. The ride out of Moscow was woefull; cold, rain and trucks; not to mention the million trucks on the road. It was a fine day when we left Moscow but a 100 km up the road it turned bad - temp dropped to about 8 degrees; it rained; the roads turned nasty (heaps of road works which required carefull navigation); and every truck in Russia was in our way (all blowing diesel fumes). We couldn't find a place to stay or camp; so kept on riding. We ended up 125km out of St Petersurg about 7pm that evening and fell on a service station which had a hotel attached; and crashed for the night.
The next day we headed out to St Petersburg about 9.30am and took us to about 3pm to cover the 125km; only to find the hotel we had chosen was full. Three other hotels in the near vicinity were all full (should of booked). We rang our contact with the local MC and they came to the rescue. Found us in town and escorted us to their clubhouse which has a bunkhouse; shower, toillet, and kitchen; not to mention the bar.
So, after a good nights sleep we're off to see the sights.

Ukraine to Russia

We left the Ukraine on Thursday 29 May. We got lost finding the border and ended up in the countryside close to the Russian border; and the Police found us! After much sign language to indicate we were lost, we got an escort to the right road. It took us an hour to get across the Ukraine side; then 1 1/2 hours to enter Russia - what a hassle! So much paperwork (all in Russian) and thanks to another biker that was also crossing, we got some help with the interpretations and filling out the forms.
It took us 2 days to get to Moscow; we stayed in a small hotel just across the Ukraine border. We were met on the outer ring road to Moscow by a contact from the HUBB (Nadejda). Thanks to her, we got a fast ride into the city and our hotel. We would never have navigated the roads without her. The traffic was unbelievable. Six lanes of crazy drivers, just about stand-still. and when they got moving - mad crazy unbelievable speeds. We used a small emergency type of lane on the left - only 1.2 metres wide (the bike is about 1.1 metres! We travelled most of the ring road (about 50km in the emergency lane overtaking all the stationery cars in the adjacent 6 lanes!
SATURDAY 31 MAY 2008
We made contact with friends from Rolling Anarchy who met us later in the day. The morning was spent braving the Metro and finding our way into the city. Walked around the Kremlin and saw Lenin in his tomb! Strolling down some of the major streets surrounding the Kremlin and inner cuty area.
We were picked up at our hotel later that day by Sasha and Dimitri and treated to to tour of the major sights around the city. After, we went to a favourite biker's meeting palce and met some of the locals and had a fine dinner.
On our return to the car, Sasha found it missing! It had been towed away. No problem, a few words with the local cops and some directions, Sasha's car was retrieved a few minutes later; at no cost!
All in all, a fantastic day seeing Moscow - a city as large as the ACT, but with 12 million people - all crazy, but heaps of fun!

Final images of Moscow

The skyline from our hotel
Man on a horse!
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
Red Square

Even more images of Moscow

WWII tank
More gold dones
Our frineds Sasha and Dimitri
Memorial to concentration camp victims

More images of Moscow

Slaying the Serpent
The cathedral
Red Square

Images of Moscow

Moscow University
Boulevarde
Another gold dome
Goddess of Victory